Max finger strength is your ability to grab a hold for 5 to 10 seconds, and it is employed in lockoff cruxes or on moves that require latching tiny or slopey holds. Finger-strength gains can come from any climbing that has moves or holds that are taxing on the fingers, like bouldering at your limit, but the extraneous movement won’t translate directly to finger strength.
Our Rock Climbing Training Bands targets this important element of climbing.
Training strength usually requires isotonic exercises like pull-ups that involve moving the joint through its range of motion, so muscles get stronger at every angle. In climbing, the fingers remain relatively static after grabbing a hold, so it’s best to train finger strength in the most common positions: full-crimp (second knuckle above the first), half-crimp (second knuckle even with the first), and open-hand (second knuckle below the first).